Preparation is most of the job
Paint shows what's under it. A new coat in a fresh color makes every dent, crack and patch easier to see, not harder. That's why painters say most of a good job is preparation, and why it's where two bids for the same room usually differ. This guide walks through the steps before the first finish coat, so you can ask a painter what they'll do and see it when they do it.
Small holes, dents and nail pops
Nail holes and small dents are filled with spackle or joint compound, left to dry, and sanded flat. Some need a second pass, because compound shrinks as it dries. Nail pops, where a drywall fastener pushes the surface out, usually need the fastener reset or a new screw driven nearby, and then the spot filled and sanded. Filling a popped nail without fixing it often means it pops again.
Cracks
Hairline cracks at corners, above doors and windows, and along ceiling lines are common. Many come back when a house moves with the seasons. Painters handle them differently: some open the crack slightly and fill it, some tape over it, and some use a flexible filler. Ask how they'll treat yours. A crack that keeps getting wider, or a door that suddenly sticks, may be a sign of a problem that paint won't fix, so ask whether someone should look at the structure first.
Larger drywall repairs
A hole from a doorknob, a damaged corner or a cut-out for old wiring needs a real patch: a backing or a piece of new drywall, tape, and several coats of compound, each sanded. Water-damaged drywall should be checked first. If it's soft, crumbling or still damp, the leak needs to be fixed and the damaged section replaced, not painted over. Ask whether drywall repairs are in the painting price or a separate line.
Matching texture
Many walls and ceilings have texture, like orange peel or knockdown. A flat patch in a textured wall stands out once it's painted. Matching texture is a skill of its own, so ask whether the painter will match it and how close you should expect the match to be.
Sanding and dust
Sanding compound makes a fine dust that travels. A careful crew covers floors and furniture, closes off doorways, and cleans up as they go. Some use sanders with vacuums attached. If the house was built before 1978, sanding old paint is different from sanding new compound, because the old paint may contain lead. Ask how the painter tests for lead and contains dust, and see the EPA's federal rules for paid work that disturbs paint in older homes.
Caulk and its limits
Caulk fills gaps where trim meets the wall, at the corners of door and window casings, and along baseboards, so the paint line looks clean. It isn't a fix for wide gaps or moving joints, and some caulks can't be painted. Ask what the painter will caulk, and whether the caulk is paintable.
Cleaning and scuffing
Paint grips clean, dull surfaces. Kitchen walls, bathroom walls, and trim near door handles often carry grease, soap film or hand oil and need washing. Glossy trim and doors need scuffing so the new coat can hold on. Paint over a dirty or glossy surface may look fine for a week and then peel or scratch off with a fingernail.
Spot priming and full priming
Every patch should be primed so it doesn't flash through the topcoat as a dull spot. Stains from water, smoke or markers need a stain-blocking primer. A full coat of primer makes sense over new drywall, over a big color change, or over a surface the new paint won't stick to on its own. Ask where the painter plans to prime and with what.
What to ask
- How will you fill holes, dents and nail pops?
- What will you do about the cracks, and might they come back?
- Are drywall repairs included, or priced separately?
- Can you match the wall texture?
- How will you control sanding dust?
- Will the patches and stains be primed?
- What will you caulk, and with what?