Products, not just colors
Two proposals for the same house can name the same color and very different paint. One lists a premium exterior acrylic over a bonding primer; another says "exterior paint, two coats." The difference shows up a few years later. This page is about reading the product side of a proposal, with one set of humidity figures for context.
The figures, and where they come from
The island's weather figures here are from NOAA's engineering weather data for the Beaufort station, not measurements taken on Hilton Head Island. In an average year at Beaufort, NOAA counts about 1,966 hours with the wet-bulb temperature above 73°F and about 3,464 hours above 67°F, the measure engineers use to flag a humid climate.
Long humid stretches favor mildew and slow drying. That makes several product choices matter more than they would in a drier place.
Primer: what it's for
Primer isn't a first coat of paint. It's a different product with a different job:
- Bonding primers help new paint grip glossy or hard surfaces such as old oil-based trim, metal or some vinyl.
- Stain-blocking primers stop water stains, tannins from cedar or redwood, and smoke from bleeding through.
- Primers for bare wood soak in and seal so the top coat goes on evenly and holds.
- Masonry primers are made for stucco, block and concrete, which can be alkaline when new.
Ask which primer goes on which surface and why. If a proposal says "primer as needed," ask how the painter decides.
Resin and paint quality
Most house paint today is water-based acrylic or a blend. Paint lines differ in how much resin and pigment they carry and in what additives they include. Higher lines generally hide better, resist dirt and mildew better, and hold color longer. A painter should be able to tell you the product line by name, not just the brand.
Mildewcide and damp surfaces
Many exterior paints contain a mildewcide, and some interior bath-and-kitchen paints do as well. It slows regrowth on the new surface. It doesn't kill mildew that's already there; that has to be washed off and the surface dried first. For porch ceilings, soffits and shaded walls, ask whether the product includes one.
Sheen choices in a humid place
Glossier finishes resist moisture and wipe clean more easily. Flatter finishes hide flaws but can hold dirt. Many painters put a low-sheen or satin finish on siding and a semi-gloss on trim, doors and porch ceilings. Inside, bathrooms and laundry rooms usually get a satin or semi-gloss. Our sheens guide explains the range.
Oil-based paint on older trim
If your trim was painted with an oil-based product years ago, a water-based coat applied straight over it can peel. A painter should test, then sand and use a bonding primer before switching. Ask what they found. See our exterior painting page for prep steps.
South Carolina's registration rule
Two state facts sit in the cards on this page. First, the statute: South Carolina law lists painters and wall paperers among residential specialty contractors, who must hold a Residential Builders Commission registration when the work on a home exceeds the dollar figure the card gives (Title 40, Chapter 59, Section 40-59-20). Second, the classification: the Commission's specialty list includes Painters/Wallpaperers, covering the application of materials common to the painting and decorating industry, and one registered specialty contractor may hold up to three classifications.
Whether a particular painter is registered is a fair thing to ask them directly; it isn't something this site looks into.
Questions about the products
- Which primer will go on each surface, and why that one?
- What paint line will you use, by name?
- Does the exterior product contain a mildewcide?
- What sheen goes on the siding, trim and doors?
- Is any old trim oil-based, and how will you prepare it?