The job
This guide covers re-staining an existing wood deck: the walking surface, the railings and, if wanted, the stairs and the rim boards around the edge. A deck re-stain looks like a weekend chore, but the price depends heavily on what's already on the wood and how much has worn away. No prices are quoted here; the sections below explain what drives them.
What the Bend figures mean for a deck
NOAA's 1991-2020 climate normals for the Bend station average about 167.8 days a year with a low at or below 32°F. NOAA's figures for Redmond, near Bend, count no hours in an average year with the wet-bulb temperature at 73°F or higher, and about 36 hours at 93°F or hotter.
A deck takes weather on its face in a way walls don't. With lows at or below freezing on that many days, water left on deck boards and in joints can freeze, and stain needs temperatures above its label minimum while it cures, so the freezing-night stretch of the year isn't staining season. The Redmond counts show no hours at the most humid wet-bulb level and some very hot hours. Hot boards drink stain fast, which can leave lap marks and uneven color if the crew works in full sun.
Size and shape
Square footage of the walking surface is the starting point. After that:
- Railings often take as long as the deck floor, because every baluster has four faces.
- Stairs add treads, risers and stringers, each with edges and end grain.
- Multiple levels, built-in benches and planters add detail work.
- Skirting and rim boards are optional; decide whether they're in the job.
Stripping or cleaning
This is the biggest single variable.
- Clean and brighten. If the old finish is a penetrating stain that has simply faded, a deck cleaner, rinse and brightener get the wood ready. This is the quicker path.
- Strip. If the old finish is a solid stain or paint that's peeling, it has to come off before new stain can soak in. Chemical stripping, scrubbing and rinsing take longer, and stubborn spots may need sanding.
- Sand. Raised grain, splinters and gray fibers may need a light sanding after cleaning. Heavy sanding of a whole deck is a larger job.
Ask what the painter saw on your deck and which path they're pricing. Two bids that differ a lot are often pricing different prep.
Board and fastener repair
Popped nails, loose boards, cracked or cupped boards and soft spots near the house or under planters turn up during cleaning. Setting nails or swapping in screws, replacing a few boards and fixing a wobbly rail all add to the cost. Ask whether the painter does that carpentry or expects it done first.
Choosing a stain
- Clear and toner finishes show the most wood but give the least protection from sun.
- Semi-transparent stains add pigment, protect better from sun and wear gradually, so the next re-stain is mostly cleaning.
- Solid stains hide the grain and last longer on vertical surfaces but can peel on a walking surface, which makes the next job a stripping job.
Product grade matters less than matching the stain to what's already on the wood. Switching from a solid stain back to a semi-transparent usually means a full strip. Our deck and fence staining page goes deeper.
Timing the work
Stain goes on dry wood, after cleaning has had time to dry, and before evening cold arrives. In hot weather, crews often work early and stain one or two boards end to end at a time to keep a wet edge. Ask how many days the job takes, including drying time, and how long the deck stays off-limits.
Getting comparable proposals
Ask each painter to list: the square footage and railings included, the prep method, any repairs, the stain product and color, the number of coats, and how plants and siding will be protected. Then compare line by line. Our pricing guide explains how painters build a total.