What you're paying for on a deck
Re-staining a deck is mostly preparation. The stain itself goes on quickly; getting the wood ready to accept it is what takes the days. Two decks of the same size can differ widely in price because of what's on them now, how worn the boards are, and how much detail the railings have. Here's how a painter thinks about the job. We don't quote prices; this page is about the reasons behind them.
Size is only the start
Deck boards are the easy part to measure. The slow parts are the vertical ones:
- railings, balusters and posts, each with four faces;
- stairs, with treads, risers and stringers;
- skirting or lattice around the base;
- built-in benches and planters.
A small deck with a long run of balusters can take longer than a larger, plain one.
Getting the old finish off
What's already on the deck decides much of the work:
- Weathered, gray wood with little finish left usually needs a cleaner and brightener, then a dry spell.
- A worn semi-transparent stain can often be cleaned and recoated with a compatible product.
- A peeling solid stain or paint may need a chemical stripper and scraping, or sanding, before a penetrating stain will soak in. That is the most labor-intensive case.
- A switch from solid to semi-transparent usually means removing the old film completely, because a translucent stain won't hide it.
Ask the painter which case you have and how they'll handle it.
Sanding and raised grain
After washing and stripping, wood fibers often stand up and feel fuzzy. A light sanding knocks them down so the stain goes on evenly. Splintered boards and lifted edges may need more. Sanding is slow on a large deck and dusty on a railing, and it's often where bids differ.
Repairs: boards, posts and the base
Rotten or split boards, popped nails and loose screws should be dealt with before any stain. UC's Statewide IPM Program says subterranean termites nest in soil and infest wood in contact with soil, and it advises termite-resistant wood or concrete footers for structures that must contact soil. Posts and skirting where wood meets the ground are worth a look before the deck is finished. If a painter finds damaged wood there, the repair belongs in its own line, and serious damage may need a different trade first.
What the boards are made of
The kind of wood affects the product and preparation. EPA says wood treated with chromated arsenicals (CCA) was used in residential structures such as decks before 2004, and that manufacturers voluntarily stopped making CCA-treated wood for homeowner uses in December 2003. If you know when your deck was built, tell the painter, and ask what they think the boards are and how that changes their plan. Cedar, redwood, newer treated lumber and composite boards each need different treatment, and composite usually isn't stained at all.
Stain choice and coats
A penetrating oil or water-based stain soaks in and wears away gradually; it can usually be cleaned and recoated without stripping. A film-forming or solid product looks more like paint and lasts differently, but it can peel, and peeling finishes take the most work to redo. Most penetrating stains go on in one or two coats, wet-on-wet or after a short dry, depending on the maker. Our deck and fence staining page explains how each type wears.
The C-33 classification
California's Contractors State License Board issues a C-33 Painting and Decorating Contractor classification. You can ask whether the painter holds it; that's the single credential question on this page.
What a clear deck proposal includes
- The deck area, plus railings, stairs and skirting, listed separately.
- The cleaning, stripping and sanding planned.
- Which boards or posts need repair, and who repairs them.
- The product, color and number of coats.
- How long the deck must stay off-limits afterwards.
Our pricing guide explains why preparation dominates the price.